Jonathan Simkhai RTW Spring 2023

Season after season, Jonathan Simkhai plays off of the idea of dichotomies. For spring, his strong assortment originated from a singular material: amber. He saw the fossilized resin as more than just a gemstone, but a representation of duality, which his show notes described as “at-once ancient and futuristic, scientific and spiritual, precious and humble.”

“That idea of finding, encasing something or capturing a moment in time that stands still in a way. We explored that further with other fossils: shells and conches that got stuck in volcanoes, and have beautiful impressions, which you’ll see through the lace work that replicates the impressions of the fossils,” he said backstage.

The designer whipped signature guipure lace — noted to be a best-performing fabric — into organic shell-shaped accents on fluid dresses and tops (the juxtaposition also worked well paired with regenerated leather).

Simkhai continued to amplify handcraft through knits, as in serene-hued, marble-printed, delicate mohair jumpers (also seen across serene, body-hugging ‘90s dresses and a micro-sequined tank dress) and marled lurex, cotton and rayon numbers with just a glimmer of sparkle from heat-fix sequins.

“I’m always intrigued by this idea of masculine and feminine, it’s a thing I’ve built the brand on and am always finding ways to go back to it. We bought a bunch of vintage [trench] pieces from the Rose Bowl flea market and sat there, trying them on in every single possible way. Trying to manipulate what felt new — there’s something so fun about seeing something familiar, but flipped over its head,” Simkhai said of the collection’s remixed, sartorial trench dressing — as in an asymmetric skirt with matching bandeau top. The same could be said for his sharp tailoring — sleek cropped boleros atop draped blouses and dresses with resin-like jewelry accents — and utility layers, like a reworked shirtdress with billowing pleated skirt.

Across categories, including new innovative footwear, Simkhai’s play on contrasts offered grounded, modern dressing for everyday.

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